The parts for this include:
89-94 (gen3) Maxima rear struts with disk brake brackets
89-94 Maxima caliper brackets and calipers
89-94 Maxima brake pads
89-94 Maxima parking brake cables right and left
4 lug hubs from Axxess or Stanza
93-01 Altima 4 lug rear rotors
You will also need the backing shims for the pads, the slider/guide shims for the pads and possibly the top shim for the caliper that presses the pads down into place. You can buy the complete hardware kit for a 89-94 Maxima for about $16 or clean up the old stuff if you have it. Some higher end pads have internal backing shims but the guide shim things are still required. The width of the guide shims is different for gen2 and 3 Maxima but they swap out fine.
The parts store had the wrong pads for a gen3 Maxima so I had to get a pads for a gen2 Maxima. The product numbers for the gen2 pads and 93-97 Altima rotors that fit from Autozone are below.
If you pulled your own parts you can probably figure out the installation but we'll go over it here for good measure. The tools you'll need are simple, the impact gun is not required, the breaker bar is. You'll also want some vise grips and heavy pliers for swapping the parking brake cable brackets.
Start by loosening the 30mm wheel nut and lug nuts with the car on the ground. Jack the car up and support with jack stands. There is a jack point in the rear center but I use the points near each wheel instead. Careful not to use the body as it will bend, see picture below.
Remove the wheel.
Release parking brake handle.
Use 8mm bolts to pop the stuck drum off if needed.
Remove 30mm nut and hub.
Tear out old drum brake crap. remove drum backing plate and e-brake cable.
Disconnect brake hose with flare nut wrench and place container below to catch spill.
Disconnect lower suspension linkage but leave main horizontal pin slightly engaged to hold up the strut.
Axxess the strut upper nuts below the rear speaker grille and rubber boot. Remove nuts.
Remove horizontal pin and catch the 25 pound strut before it hits your toes.
The base of the gen3 Maxima strut is wider where the horizontal bolt goes so you will need to make sure you get the wider horizontal bolt along with the strut. The Axxess bolt is too short.
Use a jack to slowly lift the strut into place while guiding the upper strut studs into their holes. Slap it all back together using the new parts and getting torque values from the Axxess manual available in the links section here.
Clean the new rotors with soap, water and brakleen. Apply a small amount of brake grease to the underside of the rotor where it contacts the hub to help it from getting stuck next time. Remove the caliper pins and inspect the boots for leaks then apply a generous amount of grease to the pins and reseal the boots onto the caliper bracket. Apply grease to the brake pad guides making sure no exxess gets into pads or rotor. Also apply brake grease to edge of pads where it contacts guides and use either grease or brake quiet on the backs of the pads where they contact the piston/caliper. The Axxess manual shows how the brake shims are to be installed on the backs of the pads in pairs but getting one on each pad is better than none.
And here is the final assembly !
The stock spare tire still fits this rear disk upgrade but does not fit the front disk upgrade posted earlier at this blog.
Jack up the front of the car and support with stands to facilitate brake bleeding.
Now is a good time for a full brake fluid change. Use a syringe to drain the brake fluid reservoir or simply pump the fluid through one of the wheels if it looks clean enough. Fill the system with new dot3 fluid and use a bleeder bottle to get the air out at each wheel. Pump em up and crack the valve then retighten. Use that flare nut wrench you bought to save your bleeder valves and knuckles. Let it sit for a while and bleed em again. Bleeding order, left rear, right front, right rear, left front.
If the pedal is feeling firm then put the wheels back on and "bed" the brake pads by driving the car at 10mph and braking to 1mph, 5 times. Then do the same at 20mph to 1mph and then at 60mph to 1mph. Avoid any hard stops during the brake break in period. Test the parking brake and adjust it with the small nut hidden on top of the parking brake lever under the boot.
So how did it all work? It feels great driving and stops on a dime, especially with the front brake upgrade from earlier. I'm confident the rear disks will have less fade and better stopping power than the drums. In an informal test performing a panic brake on gravel (pic below), the rear wheels did not lock up, which is good. During sustained braking tests the rear rotor got sizzling hot so they are working for sure.
The mix and match Maxima struts really fit perfectly. You can see the car body sits slightly low in front but the high wheel arch in front balances the look. Hopefully a set of lowering springs will take the car straight down so the rear wheels will tuck and the front will have a tiny fender gap.
It would be best to attach some high pressure brake gauges to each wheel to check the front to rear brake bias at different pedal pressures. Ideally a 50/50 bias is good at low pressures to preserve the front brakes but at higher pressures the fronts move to the 70/30 range to avoid rear lockup. In line proportioning valves and possibly an adjustment of the load sensing valve in the Axxess may be required, but for now the brakes seem quite good. We'll certainly need a 4 wheel alignment soon though.
Toyota Performance chips will allow you to make more power at the turn of a knob. The Surge Engineering Toyota power performance chip is made to be installed by the buyer. You can install one of these power chips in just a couple of minutes and your car will be more responsive to all of your inputs. You can simply switch up the power delivery with the supplied knob. A turn to the right and you will be doing bigger burnouts and tearing up the track. When you go home, you can turn the knob to the left to get your car up to four more miles to the gallon.
ReplyDeleteWooow this place is dead. Great write up. I am interested to hear if this worked out in the the long term. I am a new Axxess owner and am prepping it for a 500-mile/$500 car rally this summer. It is positively terrifying to drive right now due to ancient shocks and worn brakes and probably other suspension issues.
ReplyDeleteOk, so I replaced the shocks, put front springs in it from a Mercury Villager, new control arm with ball joint, new cv shaft, Altima caliper brackets and rotors up front. I need tires now, and 195/65R15s are a little hard to find. Can I fit a 205/60R15?
ReplyDelete